The Road to Yangzhou (and our ship)
Our intinerary states that we are boarding our ship at Shanghai harbor. Not so. Our tour buses dropped us at the Shanghai Harbor all right, but we were then instructed to board different buses to go to the ship. Doesn’t make any sense to me.
The national tour guide (Di) informed us that the trip would take three hours. Gina started singing, ”A three hour tour…a three hour tour.” (A soon-to-be ongoing theme.) Someone else said they had heard it would be 3 1/2 hours. What’s happening? Are we being sold into slavery?
After about 2 1/2 hours, we make a pit stop. I see an old, dirty woman outside the bus asking for empty plastic bottles. I give her mine as I walk into the store and buy some tasty ice cream. Kendra asks, “Where’s mine?” I tell her I’m not a mind reader. Another theme that will follow our journey.
There were many farms along the way to the river boat. Buffalo, the primary work beasts, have their own thatched homes.
After returning to the bus, I collect empty bottles from the seat pockets to give the old lady. Immediately, I’m surrounded by a half dozen little, dirty wrinkle-faced women. There seems to be an amount of poverty in this bastion of the Peoples Republic. Curious…
Continuing on our way, 3 hours comes and goes, 3 1/2 hours, 4 hours. We go through a toll booth and are informed that it’s five miles more to the ship. (“A three hour tour.”) Well, going along at a good clip, maybe 35 mile per hour, we expect to see the ship in about ten minutes. Not so! More than 1/2 hour later we finally get there. It’s dark (after 9:00). We’re really road weary and pissed because of not being informed about all that was going on with this stupid bus ride.
So, I get off the bus to get my carry-on and go to the stateroom for a nice hot shower. I’m standing there looking for my carry-on and as the bus driver and bearers finish pulling off all of the luggage. My bag isn’t there! What’s the point of a carry-on, if it is not to insure having a minimum of stuff for immediate use? And it’s not even on the dang bus! Well, I’m totally pissed and let everybody know it (as I am known to do from time to time). Someone suggested that maybe it is on one of the other buses and I should go looking for it. What else can I do? So, after a few minutes of rummaging around in the dark, I finally find it on one of the other buses.
(I later found out that the reason for the bus trip was that there was a huge storm expected in Shanghai and the port authority didn’t allow our ship to dock because of high winds. We saw no sign of this weather but days later, I read that Shanghai had been hit with 5” of rain in a 12 hour period and there was much flooding. So, I for one, forgave and thanked those responsible for the “three hour tour”.
The Victoria Princess
In the dark, the ship looked fine from the outside. Coming into the lobby, it still seemed fine. Nice bonsai tree in the center of a room with a hotel desk on one side and a couple gift counters on the other. The Dynasty Dining room was aft next to which was a wide stairway going up to staterooms and a forward hallway to some more rooms. (Ours was in this hallway. Room 112.)
Before adjourning to our staterooms, we were to have dinner. So, haggard as we were, we were also hungry and buffet Chinese sounded good…and it was!
Of course there was the usual baggage mix-up but eventually, we got our correct bags. Now, where do we put everything?
With only 2 small desk drawers and a half-sized closet, we somehow manage to get things arranged in a not too inconvenient way. Then to the showers!
At first look, the bathroom in the stateroom looked like (and was) larger than others I’ve known on much bigger ships. The ceiling was about 6’4” (difficult for poor Jay (a fellow tourist) at 6’6”). It has a modern syphon-flush toilet, an 8’ long vanity with a clean sink, but the shower! In one corner was a typical tub-type faucet with a pull-up button to a standard shower head. Cool! Not so…Looking down, I noitce that the floor was all one linoleum surface with a 2” deep trench around three walls of the room. There’s no curb or anything to keep the shower water from running all over the bathroom floor! It wasn’t ’til 2 days later, that I found the long-handled squeegee behind the toilet. That’s right! After each shower we had to squeegee the standing water into the trench to the drain. I learned to hate taking showers. But in tropical monsoon weather, I had to keep taking them…then squeegee the floor!
Note: Although Victoria Cruises web site and their brochure insisted that this ship was built in 1991 and refurbished in 1994, we all believe it was really built in 1971 and the refurbishing didn’t take place in the bathrooms…or on the decks, for that matter.
The outer decks are covered in Astroturf. Or should I say were covered in Astroturf? It is so old and rotten, that the upper deck has been closed off to passengers for fear they hurt themselves by tripping on it. And really, it was not much worse than what was on the third deck. (I checked.) By the way, on the third deck is a strange circular raised area that we believe was once a pool that has been covered over.
On the third floor, the Yangtze Club lounge area runs nearly the length of the ship. It includes a bar, coffee bar, large seating areas (smoking & non), dance floor, card rooms, library, table tennis room, and shops (art gallery, kite & snuff bottle shops and fresh-water pearl jewelry table).
The gym (a stationery bicycle, walk-glider and bar bells) is on the second floor.
I see a notice that the ship’s hairdresser is also the masseuse. I feel like getting a foot massage (which is listed at 150 yuan) so I go to the front desk to set an appointment. The guy gets the hairdresser and she tells him (in Chinese) she doesn’t do foot massage only full body massage (200 yuan). I say not interest (a little huffy since it is listed in the service book).
Back in my room, I get a phone call from a woman in very broken English asking something about massage. I say yeah, not knowing exactly what I’m answering. I thought maybe the masseuse was agreeing to giving a foot massage or perhaps someone at the desk just wanted to confirm that I had requested something. Two minutes later, there’s a tap at the door. I answer and the masseuse (hairdersser) comes in saying in a few broken words and gestures she’ll give me a massage for only 100 yuan ($12.50) instead of the normal 200 but I must tell no one but my wife (Kendra) who has an appointment set for that evening. I also get the idea that if Kendra cancels her appointment and makes it with the masseuse directly, she will get the 100 yuan price.
Well, this little woman starts working on me. Boy, she must have come from the jujitsu school of massage. She goes beyond deep tissue and works longer than her normal hour. She even cracks my neck. Although I generally feel good about the body work, over the next few days, I noticed a couple bruises.
After warning Kendra, she also gets the same treatment. The next day, Gina has someone write in Chinese “be very gentle”. That seems to work because she loves her massage. All of these super cheap massages. I wonder if the masseuse ever got a regular appointment. Her boss might start getting suspicious. Oh well!
Yangzhou – Slender West Lake
Since we drove to Yangzhou, the ship didn’t sail after we got aboard. The next morning we just walked back to the very buses we had arrived on the night before. On to our first tour ‘d jour. Yansgzhou seems a nice town. Interesting business streets very similar to others we will see over and over in the next two weeks. Slender West Lake, once again a formerly private estate, is a huge park. We will only tour a quarter of it and it will take 2 hours to walk through. This is the quintessential Chinese garden.
The most notable plants there are the lotus. There are rows of pots filled with the plants as well as many ponds. Not many plants are in bloom right now but those few blossoms we find are amazing. I understand why they’re so revered.
Lotus Flower – The stems of the lotus are also eaten. They taste similar to hearts of palm.
Also, there are some fabulous buildings; a sherpa, a temple and pagoda as well as ancient bridges and other places from which to appreciate these masterpieces. I’m feeling much better about China and its gardens by this time. We return to the ship for lunch and sail off to our next destination.
Nanjing – Dr. Sun Yat Sen Mausoleum
After lunch we stop at Nanjing (Nanking), the Ming Dynasty’s first capital city, now the provincial capital of Jiangsu.
After an hour’s drive and 412 stairs, we find ourselves at Dr. Sun Yat Sen’s Mausoleum in the Purple and Gold Mountains. The leader of the successful revolt against the Qing (Ching) Dynasty, Dr. Sun became the first President of the Republic of China. After his death in 1925, the government built this final resting place in his favorite place of contemplation (good feng-shui, between a mountain and water(the Yangzte)).
Who would suspect that there are 412 steps to Sun Yat Sen’s mausoleum by looking at these entry gates?
From there, we return to Nanjing with a stop for a short while at the Confucius Temple which is really a shopping district a-la Chinatown. (Shopping…YAY!) Back to the ship, moving on.
Mt. Huangshan (The Yellow Mountain)
(from our port city of Chizhou)
(A three hour tour). We’re taking a long drive today to see one of China’s most well known and beautiful natural wonders, Mount Huangshan. When we arrive, peasants are there selling walking sticks (rough lathe-turned sticks with cane-style handles) for 5 yaun (60¢). We all buy one.
Gondola Ride
From here, we take a cabled gondola that holds about 30 people to the top of the mountain. It’s starting to rain. As we gather in the waiting room at the top, the rain comes down really hard. People who don’t have a hooded windbreaker (yes, I’m prepared), are buying yellow plastic sheet ponchos at 5 yuan each.
We start walking the path to the hotel where we’ll have lunch. There are many steps without railings. As we’re walking, enjoying the beauty, Kendra notices a woman ahead of us who is having trouble navigating the steps.
She offers the lady assistance. So, Kendra and I each take a hand and get her to our destination. Along the way, the woman tells us her story of how she was recently widowed, then convinced by her friends to come to China anyway. (This was supposed to be their second honeymoon.) A truly sad story.
Middle School #4 Staff
After lunch, I go out to the terrace and start taking pictures. I haven’t noticed which direction the rest of the group has gone, so I start following my nose.
Fascinating! I see many men carrying bundles on shoulder poles. Then it occurs to me. Everything on this mountain must be hand carried…building materials, food for the restaurants, garbage… everything. I later find out that there are four hotels and numerous eateries on the mountain. There’s a whole lotta’ carryin’ goin’ on!
Everything is carried up and down the mountain by shoulder-pole.
As I’m wandering along, a small group of Chinese tourists pass me and a cute guy says “Hello” and I say Hi. They all titter. Then, as they walk, they’re talking and laughing. I feel self-conscious. I check my fly. Not it. Not wanting to be the brunt of their jokes, I lag behind.
I find myself wishing the weather was a bit better. With all the rain, I can’t get lot of good shots.
A few minutes later, I find that I’ve caught up with them again. This time one of the women says hello and starts asking questions. Where am I from, am I enjoying China, etc. She explains that the group she’s with are teachers from the local Middle School. I’m introduced to the cute guy who first spoke to me. He’s the principle, the one next to him is the vice-principle. They ask if I’d like to join them walking. As we go along she explains about the beautiful scenes we’re viewing. This tree is 1500 years old. It was considered very sacred, etc. When we reach another hotel (very recently built), they are stopping for lunch.
So, I bid them farewell and continue on my way, looking for vistas to photograph. What I find are a lot of people, another hotel and several kiosks selling trinkets. It’s time to turn around to go back to our group’s meeting spot. As I come upon a fork in the trail, another cute guy says hello. We chat for a few minutes (there are many Chinese anxious to practice their English) but I must get going.
Lost Camera
When I get back to the hotel, it has long since stopped raining, I take off my jacket and camera, open my pack and put stuff away. Joining up with the others, going back to the gondola, I spot a fabulous vista that I missed on the way up because of helping the widow.
So, I go out to the point to take a shot. Uh-Oh! No camera! I look frantically. Not there. Then it strikes me. I left my 2-week old camera (full of fabulous shots) on the hotel steps. Rushing back to get it, I know it won’t be there…even though it’s been less than 5 minutes since I left it. Of course, I am right. It’s gone!
Now, I’m mad at myself. I mutter and sputter all the way back to the gondola. Nearly everyone’s hears my story. I get in the gondola car and hear someone on the other side of the car say that Ray (our guide) found a Pentax camera. I can’t believe my ears!
I get out of the gondola to find Ray. He has it! He tells me that a Chinese tourist had seen me leave it and figured it must belong to someone in our group (Americans) and gave it to Ray. That day, my faith in humanity went up a notch. I also learned that the Chinese people are basically honest. I wish people in our country could learn that.
Bus Breakdown
As we’re winding our way back down the mountain, we must take the same detour that we did on the way up. It’s a bumpy one lane gravel road that passes through some small farming villages. Very scenic!
The problem is that it’s now rush-hour and the few vehicles that are on this road all seem to be in the same place at the same time but not going in the same direction! Our miracle bus driver somehow makes it through and we’re on our way again. As we’re going through one village, the bus engine sputters and dies.
We coast to a stop just off the road so the other traffic can get by. We’re thrilled at having a real adventure and get off the bus while village residents start gathering near us. (They never see busses, let alone busses full of white tourists.) Kendra and Fran have candy. They give some to the kids. One kid tries to take it all. Typical kid!
After a few minutes, the driver fires up the bus and we depart, feeling as though we actually saw a bit of real China.
Mt. Lushan (from our port city of Jiu Jiang)
Gorgeous views while assending Mt. Lushan.
Leaving our ship, docked at Jiu Jiang, the bus drives around Poyang Lake, the largest lake in China, we head to Jushan.
On our way to Chiang Kai Shek’s Summer Villa in Lushan, we stop several times. The first stop allows us to take pictures of an old graveyard on a hillside which is located across from a tea plantation. The crypts are in the old Chinese style, built with flying eves, finished in red or blue tiles.
Old crypt in a cemetary across from the tea plantation.
At the tea plantation, we learn that only the very top, undeveloped leaves are pinched off. Any below that are not drinkable. Also, tea plants are cultivated for seven years, then cut to the ground. This way the tea plant can continue to produce through three cuttings or 28 years before being replaced.
The tea plantation.
Continuing to Lushon I’m reminded of the road to Hana on Maui. The hills are covered with the same type of lacy bamboo forests.
Lacey bamboo forest
Our next stop is at the Invisible Bridge; a beautiful green gully with a flat rock jutting out that looks like the beginning of a natural bridge; the rest being invisible. Passing beyond that, we find a small waterfall and stream.
Chiang Kai Sheck’s summer home Meilu Villa
Seeing Chiang’s Villa, I’m underwhelmed. There are so many other homes in the area that are far grander. Although it is historically noteworthy, the most interesting fact I came away with is that Madame Chiang is still alive in New York City. She’s 104 years old and supported by the People’s Republic of China after leaving Taiwan when the Nationalists lost power in the 1970s.
The unremarkable Villa Meilu, Chiang Kai Sheck’s summer home
An interesting note is that in many of the places we would see, the walkways were often intricately designed.
Power Shopping
We were given the usual 1/2 hour to wander the shopping street of the mountain resort. Well I found the pigeon blood vase I’d been seeking along with numerous other things (a crackle-glazed celadon vase, a wood carving of an emperor on horseback, a chrysanthemum dish and brass bookmarks). I’m discovering that I’m good at bargaining, too…and quick! What I found in half an hour, others would have taken half the day.
Yes, quick…but I’m running late! Where’s the bus? Oh, there it is. Whew. As I board, arms full, I get a round of applause from the others. I’m the last to arrive…yet another theme that will be repeated.
Tao Temple and Hermit’s Grotto
Our last stop is a mountain-top Tao Temple and the Hermit’s Grotto situated right next to each other.
Fashion Show
That evening on board, we are treated to a fashion show of period costumes as well as clothes in the ship’s store. The models are the ships wait and service staff. They do a very good job of it.
Onboard, we are treated to a lovely display of Chinese fashions from 3,000 years ago through to the present.
Wuhan
Hubei Provincial Museum
The Hubei Provincial Museum houses the famous bells of Marquis Li of Chu. We hear a performance using exact replicas of those bells. They sound magnificent. The originals and all the other instruments (and some of the remains of Li’s concubines) can all be viewed.
These actual bells were burried with Marquis Li about 2,400 years ago.
Walking Street shopping area
Kendra, Francine, Susie, Bob and I decided to have lunch and shop on the Walking Street, one block from the dock. So, our first non-Chinese meal of the trip finds me bamboozled into hitting MacDonalds.
The Big Mac is much like home but the fries are better (like they used to be 30 years ago, here).
Many of the buildings at the Walking Street are of European design.
This shopping area is a major spot for locals to shop. Not many tourists seen here. Most sales people don’t speak English. We were told by the guide that there’s no bargaining here but many shops are having sales this time of year…and boy, he was right! I got a vest for 5 yuan (60¢), polo and t-shirts for 25 to 35 yuan ($3.10 to $4.35) each! AND, they’re American labels & sizes! I go crazy. Susie and Bob aren’t interested in where we’ve stopped, so they go off on their own.
Kendra got something special from a piece of public art.
We then head down a side street (little more than an alley) to find the real bargains. Tiny open storefronts with CDs and VCDs from 5 to 15 yuan each. Some of the titles aren’t available in the States, yet. Shrek is still in the theaters back home! Quills has just finished its run. Yet, here they are for home viewing for practically nothing!
Francine finds a new ride.
Yikes! More polo shirts…and only 10 yuan ($1.25). My Chinese size is 52 or 53. Most stores carry up to size 42. So, finding anything to fit is tough. But I manage. PIG HEAVEN!!!
The side streets offered some real bargains!
After a full afternoon of shopping, we’re pooped. So, we stop in a bakery (or so we thought) called Bón Apatit. It’s European styled but the bad service and strange menu keep us guessing. Taro (Poi) ice cream isn’t so bad!
Yueyang
Yueyang Tower
The poet Fan Zhongyan, one of China’s most well known and loved poets, was known to come to the Yueyang Tower to contemplate and write. His most famous prose can be found emblazoned inside the tower itself.
Mao also wrote something there which is in the room on the top floor. His scripture is the only reason the Red Guard didn’t destroy the building during the Cultural Revolution.
Yushan Silver Needle Tea Shop
Across the street is a tea shop famous for its Silver Needle tea. The sample I tried did nothing for me. However, in the center of the main floor room, there is a large water cooler. I found it intriguing but knew better than to drink water from it. (Later, I learned, Kendra found it too appealing.)
Ethnic dancers performed for us in the Silver Needle Tea Shop.
Upstairs, two young women, dressed in heavy costumes of a northwestern people, play folk music and dance for us. The walls are surrounded with beautiful things for sale. I found a silk scarf and a carving made from reed.
Gilligan Party
On our way back to the ship Kendra reminds us to get stuff for a cocktail party she & I are having this afternoon in our stateroom. Fortunately, just before we board, there are people selling wine and beer and stuff.
So, I try bargaining with one woman for a bottle of Dynasty Cabernet. I know it’s a pretty good wine. I can’t make out if she’s saying 15 or 50 yuan. I give her a 50 yuan bill expecting change. She doesn’t give me any. I grab my bill back and try to bargain, offering 30 yuan. Another woman says ok, takes my 50, gives me change and a bottle of wine. Different wine! Too late. They’re gone and I take my bottle up the gangway.
We’ve invited Gina & Francine, John & Larry, Susie & Bob and Landa.
Landa’s there early wanting another acupressure treatment on her back. We go to her cabin where there’s more room and I give her a good zap. She feels better.
Back to our cabin, people are arriving. John & Larry bring beer they bought when I got the wine. Fran brings another wine (we try to decide who’s is worse). The beer is equally bad. Susie & Bob bring hors ‘d oeuvres from the captain’s cocktail party going on upstairs. Landa brings packages of crackers & peanut butter. Gina brings her Oreos and of course, Kendra has her ever-present bag of candies.
We chat, bitch about the drinks and generally have a good time.
Then Kendra starts complaining of feeling chilled. She has a temperature and starts getting abdominal cramps.
Francine tells me about Kendra drinking the water in the tea shop. I can’t believe it, Kendra, the world traveler who has been everywhere drank the water! So Francine then finds the ship’s doctor who gives Kendra some medication (antibiotics, I think). She also takes some Imodiam that Gina has. She’s sick all that night but starts feeling better by the next morning.
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