I Shopped My Way Across China (part 5 of 5)

In August, 2001 (pre-9/11), I took a 19-day excursion through China with my sister-by-choice, Kendra. It was an amazing journey. My hope is to excite you into making the trek for yourself. This is part 5 of 5.

Beijing

Temple of Heaven

First stop – the Temple of Heaven

On our way from the airport to the hotel, were taken to our first tour site, the Temple of Heaven. Used for ceremonial purposes only, the emperor would make a sacrifice of grains and fruit at this temple to ensure a good harvest.

Very detailed finishes

Although, the building is impressive (it is of the round pagoda style rather than square and is surrounded by the typical tri-terraced stairway), there is nothing really noteworthy about it.

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ATM! ATM!

That evening, I realized that my cash was running low. I asked the concierge if there was an ATM around. She said she would arrange for a cab to take me.

After the standard argument with the cabby, she said he’d take me to a bank with an open ATM and bring me back. She gave me a card with the hotel information on it and wrote the cabby’s license number on it. Well, I saw more of Bejing that night than I thought a simple trip to the bank would take.

We started driving down the main boulevard and I’m just taking it all in. After a couple of miles and passing several banks, I’m beginning to wonder if I’m to be the next white slave. (Who wants a 50 year old slave?) Why haven’t we gotten there yet? On he drives. At least he’s not crazy like my driver in Chungqing! We must have gone 7 or 8 miles when he pulls around the corner into an alley (OH, GOD!). Whew! It’s OK. The driveway to the bank entrance and ATM are off this alley. Then I realize that once I’ve gotten my money (only a few hundred dollars, but more than he makes in a month), now is the time when he would make his move. I tell my wild imagination that he’s an honest man and I’ll get back without incident and I do get back without a problem. I guess that most people don’t go to the bank late at night. So, there just aren’t many ATMs open then.

The Ming Tombs

The 13th Emperor’s tomb and museum

For some reason, known only to the Chinese mind, all the artifacts removed from the third Ming emperor’s tomb (the only one to have been opened) have been placed on exhibition at the site of the thirteenth (and last) emperor’s tomb. The collection of costumes, armor and implements (in gold, jade and precious stones) is certainly interesting and informative. However, it was the walk to the third emperor’s tomb (about a mile) that was the most fascinating. (The first and second Ming emperors were buried elsewhere.)

The parked grounds are lush and serene. On our walk we come across a small ornate pagoda-like building (about 4’ high) with a sign reading “The Sacred Silk Burner”. I guess silk must be burned at the emperor’s funeral.

Silk burner

Continuing on, one is greeted by huge stone statues of Chinese men, then a variety of animals. One on each side of the walkway, are a matched pair of specific animals. First there was a standing fu dog on both the right and left of you; then a sitting fu dog on each side. Next you come upon standing elephants then seated elephants and so on. There were probably a dozen different types of animals all with standing and sitting counter-parts.

Larry finds the resting guard’s hump rather comfortable

The story goes that the sitting one is resting while the standing one is guarding the place. Then, presumably, they would switch positions.

After going more than half way, you come to a housed, inscribed obelisk (similar to the one we saw at Sun Yat Sen’s Mausoleum). I didn’t ask what these are. It’s probably sort of a headstone thing.

Along the way, we walk through the 5th Emperor’s tomb

Passing through this building, you’re struck with a view of the third emperor’s tomb. Higher yet on the hill, it’s a pink, two tiered pagoda on a castle-like walled area. Going up through the castle walls, the stairs bring you to some gorgeous views. Here, in the middle of Beijing, the green valley seems to go on forever!

Finally, we reach the 3rd Emperor’s tomb. Our guide, Susie, points out some features

Cloisonne Factory

A beautiful cloisonne vase

Although I’m not a fan of cloisonne, I found this factory tour the most interesting. The process is so labor intensive and detailed, one must appreciate the art form.

Artisans are placing copper wire to create the desired pattern

Multiple layers of enamel are applied with a kiln firing in between each layer

In the first room, workers tediously glue copper wire in precise shapes until all the pieces are set then they go back and solder all those very same pieces. Next, the piece is taken to a room where the powered glass colors are mixed and applied. Once dried, it’s off to the kiln where it’s fired for less than ten minutes at a very high temperature. After cooling, it goes back for another color application and firing…then again! After the final firing, it makes its way to the polishing room where it is placed on a lathe then ground and polished smooth with hand-held stones.

The Great Wall

Yet again, a mind blowing concept. One of only two Wonders of the World that still exist.

After lunch, we make the long trek (a two hour drive) to The Great Wall of China!

East meets West

Upon arriving, I first notice the old and new world coming together in the form of an old man in the parking lot begging for plastic bottles. With his thin frail frame, rustic cane and traditional long white pointy beard, he appears to be the archetypal wise Chinese sage. However, dressed in a t-shirt and blue baseball cap, he exemplifies the meeting of East and West of modern China.

Ancient canons line a part of the wall to keep out invaders

Taking in the panorama of this, the largest man-made structure on earth, I am humbled by the dragon-like meandering across the endless mountains eventually disappearing into the mists. Studying the wall’s design, you can tell which side was China and which side the invaders came from. There are parapets on one side only, allowing the soldiers some cover while aiming their arrows at the hordes.

Inside one of numerous billets along the wall in which the soldiers would be housed

Climbing the steps to higher positions on the wall’s trail is not so easy. The steps are uneven. Combine that with the altitude, one tires rather quickly. Frequent rests seem to be the order of the day. Some of us wanted to go higher, while some decided that there wasn’t much to be gained by that and laid out easier goals. Landa and I are among these and only make it to the first billet. It is fascinating to see how soldiers lived and worked in this most uncomfortable environment.

We hear bells then a Buddhist priest chanting

We heard bells and looked around to see a Buddhist priest standing in the doorway of a temple down in the valley. It’s always surprising to see signs of religion in an atheist nation. That is an example of how the society and government differ. The government dictates its position and the people do what they will (although not flaunting it).

There are many buildings in this Disneyland setting. I assume that some of them are ancient. But much of the complex has been built for the tourist trade. There is a huge area off to the side that is presently being constructed. It will be more shops, restaurants and perhaps a hotel. Fortunately, the architectural style is compatible with the existing structures.

For the Wall workers, it’s home sweet home

Climbing down, we decide that a cold beer would be the answer to a tourist’s prayer. So I buy us a couple and rest under the umbrella absorbing our surroundings.

Landa & I decide to get a beer, and we’re already high from our day’s adventures.

I realized at one point that I haven’t seen Larry and John. It turned out that they walked the wall going in the opposite direction from where our main group went. They said that that section of wall loops around so they didn’t have to back-track.

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Professional Acrobatics Show

That evening, after dinner, we attend the “professional” acrobatics show. Although enjoyable, I think I prefer the acrobatics school performance we saw several days earlier. No photographs were allowed of this performance.

The Summer Palace

Entrance to the Summer Palace

The Summer Palace has this, the longest covered walkway in the world

The roof of the walkway is covered in intricate designs

The marble yacht doesn’t float, but it is real marble!

The next morning, we’re off to The Garden for the Cultivation of Harmony, commonly known to us as the Summer Palace. This is where the Dowager Empress Cixi, the Dragon Lady, placed her nephew, the Guangxu Emperor, under house arrest while she ran the country. In 1908, to cover up her many atrocities, she poisoned him the day before she, herself died.

The grounds are so vast that we have to take this water taxi to get back to the bus. FUN!

A shot of the Summer Palace from the middle of the lake

Pearl Factory

Yet another factory store tour was the fresh water pearl factory. As usual, the stuff was beautiful but pricey. I did learn, however, that fresh water pearls usually grow in clusters (up to 30 per oyster) unlike salt water pearls which only grow one per oyster. Also, it was the Chinese, not the Japanese, who discovered how to make cultured pearls

Tian’anmen Square

Mao’s tomb was closed when we were there

Unlike other cities in China, the military was often seen in Beijing

A Soviet-era statue decorates one corner of the square.

Other than Mao’s Mausoleum and a couple of monuments, Tian’anmen Square is nothing more than a very large asphalt surface (the largest public square in the world). Since we were there on Sunday, Mao’s tomb was not open for viewing.

Imperial Palace (& Forbidden City)

The Imperial Palace is across the street from Tiananmen Square

We crossed the street from Tiananmen Square, walked up the imperial steps and entered the first gate of the Imperial Palace. This fortress is set up with three identical gates. Between one and the next are huge open areas where soldiers would take a stand. Invading forces would have to go through three armies and three impenetrable gates to get to the emperor. On the perimeter of these fields are the government offices.

The first of two huge courtyards (buffer zones) between the first and second gates in the palace

The second buffer zone between the second gate and the Forbidden City

As I crossed these desolate expanses, I believed that the elaborate, lush gardens (like I had seen elsewhere) that I expected to see here must have been bulldozed by the communists. Not so. It was designed this way for the aforementioned security precautions.

Once again, separated from the group, I was walking toward the final gate (beyond which lays the Forbidden City), a Chinese girl about 20 years old, came up to me and asked if I was from California. She said she was familiar with Disneyland and Stanford and I told her that I lived near Stanford. She said that she was an art student and her school was raising money by selling student paintings which were being shown in a building here, on the palace grounds and would I like to see some. Not knowing whether she was telling the truth or with a gang of thugs around the corner waiting for unsuspecting tourists, I warily followed her to a delightful art exhibit where I purchased several paintings.

Afterward, entering the Forbidden City, I was overpowered by the sudden change of atmosphere.

Afterward, entering the Forbidden City, I was overpowered by the sudden change of atmosphere. Here are the fabulous gardens and buildings I had expected to see. From the fanciful pagodas and tea houses to the spectacular rock sculptures and unusually shaped trees, I couldn’t take pictures fast enough.

Fabulous rock sculpture garden

Such unusually shaped trees

My favorite rock sculpture

Puyi, the Boy Emperor, last of the Qing Dynasty, ruled from The Forbidden City for just four years until 1912, abdicating to Sun Yat Sen’s Nationalists. He continued to reside here until 1924. It became the National Palace Museum in 1925.

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            Our free day

Although I really wanted to go to the Beijing Zoo for part of my free day, no one in our group seemed to be interested. Then I heard it wasn’t a well kept facility, so I decided I’d go with the others to the Friendship Store and Silk Alley for a day of…shopping!

Gina, John and Larry took one cab, Peggy, Landa and Estelle were in cab two and Kendra, Fran and I had cab three. We were to caravan to the Friendship Store and regroup there. Well, cabby one followed orders but our two drivers seemed to be confused and after two stops and consultations between themselves, we ended up blocks from Silk Alley on embassy row.

The Friendship Store

As we trod our way toward the Friendship Store (several blocks away), the six of us by passing street merchants with watch covered arms and other irresistible trinkets, we managed to enjoy the worldly atmosphere of the palatial embassies…including our own.

Finding the Friendship Store, we entered through the back door. I immediately found the chopstick rests I’d been looking for and bargained for those and a half dozen small Panda pins, which I gave to each of us in our group. I then went to look for the other three but couldn’t locate them. So, rejoining our sextet, we decided to shop as we wanted, then meet in the Starbucks at 1 pm. I found many of the things I’d already bought but at exaggerated prices. I did see other things that I hadn’t seen before but knew they were too expensive or I didn’t really want them. After a cup of Starbucks (better than the coffee we had been getting in China but still tasted foreign to what I was used to) we gathered, grabbed a bite of lunch and headed off to Silk Alley.

Silk Alley

Strolling down the main boulevard, I’m struck by the ordinary appearance of the place. It could be downtown LA; nothing remarkable or foreign about the atmosphere. As we approach Silk Alley, we see a god of a man in t-shirt and shorts with a package in hand, walking in our direction. He’s over six feet tall with black hair, a model’s face, piercing deep blue eyes, arms and pecs of death, wrap-around legs and a 28” waist. One of the women in our group had the nerve to start a conversation with him (thank you). I just got to ogle him as he recounted his story. He’s an Israeli soldier on vacation and was excited to have found a great deal on this chess set. After five minutes (could have been five hours for my money) we parted. As we were walking to the Alley, Landa wiped her chin. Yup, he was that gorgeous.

Of course, after a few minutes of shopping with the gang, I managed to find myself alone, again. While haggling with a shop keeper over a enameled golden peacock, a bearded American guy about thirty years old starts a conversation with me. We walk together, me shopping, him talking, and I’m wondering if maybe he’s interested in something other than just talk. Well, it turns out that he is but not exactly what I had in mind.

His story is that he had been in China for a year teaching English in Xi’an. He felt it was time to go home and packed up, came to Beijing to leave. In the meantime, his wallet with all his money and his passport was stolen. So, he was waiting around for the Embassy to reissue the passport and find some way of getting passage home. It became obvious to me that he was after a handout. Feeling as though his story was just that, a story, I told him I needed to find my friends and left him. I couldn’t find anyone. So, I took a cab back to the hotel for some rest.

The ANA New Century Hotel

Of the places we had stayed, this was the worst. Given the choice, I will never stay at an ANA hotel again.

Every place else we went the service people were not just polite but eager to help and always smiling. Not at this hotel. I rarely saw any staff person smile. On the first morning we noticed the bell captain marching his staff (all female) to their stations. Then he proceeded to give orders in harsh tones after which the staff saluted. Weird!

We were supposedly in the luxury rooms of the hotel. Although the rooms were furnished nicely, there was nothing special about them (unlike the other places we had stayed). Heck, there wasn’t even turn down service in the evening.

When I went to the cashier’s window to ask for a cash advance on my credit card (as I had done at other hotels) I was told no, go to the bank. This was at night when no bank was open. (See ATM! AMT!)

The lobby in this five star rip-off has nowhere to sit. Not a couch or chair to be seen. Not so easy for a group to gather and talk.

I did find a soapstone carving in the gift shop that was unique. After three days of going back at bargaining some more, I finally got it at my price.

On our last night in Beijing, the gang (John, Larry, Gina, Bob, Susie, Landa, Estelle and I) go for a drink at the hotel bar. There were three service people and only one other table occupied (a Japanese couple having tea). A waitress-in-training comes to our table with a menu of drinks. Bob and Susie each ask for scotch and water, I ask for a glass of wine. Before we finish ordering, the waitress has a very puzzled look on her face. We find that she doesn’t understand a word of English. She brings her trainer over. We start to order again. She also doesn’t know what we’re saying. So, we each point to what we want on the menu. Apparently, neither one reads… either English or Chinese! We decide we are tired of this and say we don’t want anything. They leave. Ten minutes later, the two are back with a man who speaks English. We make our order and it’s another ten minutes before we’re served. Although Kendra and Fran haven’t returned from their Silk Alley expedition, we decide to have dinner anyway. Bob and Susie said they had a good meal the evening before at the hotel’s continental style restaurant. So, we decide to go there. Pasta sounds pretty good after three weeks of Chinese food.

The place is pretty empty…people only at four tables. There are more service people than customers. For the eight of us, we get five menus at which time Estelle asks for a pot of tea. After ten minutes, the waitress returns to take our orders. Estelle reminds her about the tea. We order. Estelle gets her tea after the rest of us are served our drinks. After waiting more than 1/2 an hour, Landa, Bob, Susie and Gina get their food (one at a time over a five minute period). We’ve been there for nearly an hour when the waitress comes to tell John and Larry that they don’t have the steaks they ordered, what else would they like? Estelle and I had ordered lasagna, hadn’t been served and were fuming by this point. When I heard what the waitress said to the guys, I blew up, cancelled my order, told her what a horrible place and service it was and went to my room. 20 minutes later, there was a knock on my door. The waitress was there with a covered dish (my lasagna) and tries to explain that it is on the house. I told her to take it back and slammed the door.

Later that night, I went to settle the bill with the hotel and gave them a comment card with statements that would surely curl their hair (if they can read English).

Then I went to the cashier’s window to have my Yuan changed back to Dollars. She refuses and tells me that I can do that only at the airport. THE FINAL INSULT!

Home

The return flights were uneventful. I did chat with a Chinese American guy (about 25) with a body builder’s physique and tattoos. He was very friendly and we talked for some time. He was traveling with friends and had spent most of his time in Wanzhou.

After returning home, it took almost a week before I got over the jetlag.

Epilogue – The Loot

Although I titled this journey Shopping My Way Across China, I didn’t really go into the details of my shopping experiences. That was to save you, my readers, from what might be quite boring. However, the following pictures are of some of the fabulous things I found on this most amazing journey. Thank you for going along with me.

Wood carving of the first emperor

A beautiful set of chop sticks in a hand-carved mahogany box

Gorgeously enameled golden peacock about 6″ high

Exquisite figurines made from dough that are under 3″ tall

Traditional styled ink painting by one of the students selling at the Imperial Palace

The teacher’s handywork at the Imperial Palace sale

Ink pot styled after the Imperial court

It took three days of negotiating and Kendra’s help to get me this soap stone carving of the God of Longevity at my price.

I watched as the artist hand painted the inside of perfume bottles like these.

A miniature set of terra cotta warriors replicas

A mask for my collection, made of the root of a reed.

Also made from reed root, this exquisite figurine about 8″ tall

The one thing I really wanted to find when I left for China, a Pigeon-Blood Vase

To learn about Palm Springs real estate, please visit http://www.torbuck.com or email me: tor@torbuck.com

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I Shopped My Way Across China (part 4 of 5)

An unexpected welcome for our group!

Xi’an

It’s dark when we arrive in Xi’an. We’re weary from a less than auspicious travel day. As the buses pull out of the airport, we become aware that we have a police escort! Interesting! Our local guide that evening was so-so. We’re told we were going to the city wall (the only complete city wall left in China).

Out the window, I noticed a city that seems vibrant with life. There was some neon signage that felt vaguely like Las Vegas. Interesting architecture. The guide told us that we are going to see a ceremony that was created for President Clinton’s visit a couple years before. (I’d rather go to the hotel and rest.)

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         Ceremony in the Walled City (The original Xi’an)

The armed guard looks so fierce. No?

At the City Wall, we crowded around the south gate. There were six Qing Dynasty costumed guards with spears in front of the gates. Cool! When the gates opened, out paraded Qing Dynasty dignitaries (2 men and 2 women) carrying an assortment of things. (I couldn’t see what these might be.) We were asked to prepare a reception line.

My Xi’an passport and Key To The City!

As we passed, the first two “dignitaries” were giving out small cups of wine to welcome us. The next person handed each of  us a cloth covered book and the third placed a Key-to-the-City around our necks.

Receiving our passports.

Passing through the gates we were stopped by more costumed performers sitting at a table. They took the books that were just handed to us, opened them and stamped these Passports-to-the-City with the official entrance chops.

Performing the ancient welcoming dance.

Next, a host of brightly dressed performers danced an ancient ritual of welcome. Heady stuff! The interior of the “City” was empty of buildings. However, the interior of the wall itself is one large building inside of which were a number of shops and art galleries. Whoopee! More shopping!

By the time we reached the Sheraton Xian Hotel, we were in bright spirits, dazzled by the attention lavished upon us.

As it turns out, our tour guide, Ray is from Xi’an and his mom still lives there. Bin and Di (tour coordinators) both live in Xi’an. Because of their connections, they were able to arrange for the police escort (an off-duty friend) for our entire stay and the special welcome at the city wall.

            Lesser Wild Goose Pagoda

Lesser Goose Pagoda

The next morning, Gina (who was on a different bus the night before) told Kendra and me that the local tour guide on their bus is the best! We swtich buses and find that she was right. Stephanie is truly amazing. She’s a teacher who moonlights as a tour guide. Her scope of knowledge, impeccable English and sense of humor, were a perfect blend. She also new when to keep quiet and let us just enjoy the sites.

Replica of an old cart.

Built in the 11th century, the badly weathered monolith sits in a lovely parked surrounding. The grounds are well used by the locals. There were several groups of older people practicing their tai chi, fan dancing, etc. On the pagoda portico, I saw a group waltzing! It is a happy place to be.

Waltzing on the terrace.

In the gift shop, I found the most beautiful dough people. Dome-encased figurines of the most delicate finish and rich colors, these are actually made out of real dough. They’re so delicate, two of the six I bought, were destroyed by the time I returned home, even though I kept them in my carry-on bag.

To learn about Palm Springs real estate, please visit http://www.torbuck.com or email me: tor@torbuck.com

            Terra Cotta Warriors Museum & dig sites

Driving up to the Museum grounds, once again, we notice both sides of the road are lined with souvenir booths. There seem to be many brightly colored objects and some of the group want to go shopping there before seeing one of the most amazing archeological finds.

They returned with tapestry purses, hats and other stuff that I don’t understand why they’d buy it. I went to the dig sites and museum.

The first of five buildings we went into is a circa-rama theater. Using a narrative story style with actors in period costumes, the film tells the story of how the tombs were built, how they were subsequently destroyed and then rediscovered 2500 years later.

The film is scratchy and the sound is nearly inaudible. Obviously, the speakers have been blown out, so for a half-hour everything one hears is garbled. However, we still get the gist of what happened.

Next I went to the main dig building. It is the #1 pit and has been there since approximately 1980. There hasn’t been any digging going on at this sight for many years. The statues were shattered 2500 years ago, then pieced together and placed back in their original locations in the last 30 years.

Impressive to see, especially considering the amount of work necessary to reassemble the thousands of pieces, the row after row of warriors (each with a unique face) and horses stand as they did two and a half millennia ago.

The #2 pit is similar but smaller and the #3 pit is basically empty. In the center of this dig is a canvas canopy with a shining, bare light bulb hanging from it. This is supposed to look like the dig is being worked on as you’re watching. However, it looks more like a deserted movie set to me.

The dig site looks more like a movie set.

The museum building, houses some of the weapons (those that weren’t stolen by grave robbers) and objects of art. The most notable of these are two bronze horse-drawn carts; the larger of which is said to be the largest bronze sculpture ever unearthed.

A gorgeous half-sized bronze cart was excavated.

In the same building as the theater, there is a gift shop in which one can buy replicas of the warriors from 2” high to full-size. Dr. Steve (an art collector in our group) bought two of the life-sized figures, a standing general and the kneeling archer. I bought nothing because the prices were too high priced. Instead, I bought some pieces from independent (read black market) dealers wandering around the museum grounds.

To learn about Palm Springs real estate, please visit http://www.torbuck.com or email me: tor@torbuck.com

            Dumpling Dinner…the Best!

Upon arriving at the restaurant for dinner that evening, we saw a banner strung across the building that said Welcome Boulder City Hospital Foundation Group to China. That’s us! Cool!

Upon seating us, the waitress explained that each of the dumplings served would be shaped like the main ingredient in that morsel; eg: a chicken is chicken, a pig is pork, etc. Each basket had eight dumplings; one for each person at the table. (Basically, a dumpling is a small pot sticker that is steamed rather than fried.)

Well, I enjoyed this meal more than any other on the trip. Each dumpling was a work of art and a gastronomic delight. We had a total of 14 different types brought to us one at a time in a round, covered steaming baskets. Each dumpling seemed better than the other. None of us could believe how great it all was. (Since Kendra doesn’t eat any seafood, I got a few more dumplings than the others did. Hee-hee.) In fact, as we were hurried out of the restaurant to go to the theater next door, we felt that staying at the restaurant might be a better alternative (even though we were full). We just wanted to experience more of the same.

            A Tang Dynasty musical goes Broadway (well…off off Broadway)

The costumes…Tang Dynasty, the story…Tang…the choreography…Tang, the music; strictly Broadway with classical overtones. Actually the blending of old world and new, East with West was well done. I could have lived without the stringed instrument soloist. (I thought she came to the end of her piece three times before she was done.)

In the Finale, the chorus dances across the stage and as they raise their arms and turn, their dresses become peonies…to great effect!

Lots of brightly-colored costumes, great lighting and fun staging effects made for an enjoyable time. The emperor got his concubine and all ended happily.

            On the Tube

Kendra decided to turn on the TV each night upon arriving back at the Sheraton Xi’an Hotel. Flipping through the channels, we found a Pairs Diving event which I assumed to be from the Good Will Games. I knew they were taking place at that time. Since the announcer was speaking Chinese, I didn’t realize at first that the event was taking place in China, not Australia. In fact, the games we watched were a part of the 20th Unversiade. Never heard of it before.

Later, when we reached our hotel in Beijing, I found out that two of the venues for the Universiade were located across the street from our hotel. Unfortunately, the following day was closing ceremonies. So, my seeing an event wasn’t possible.

            Farming Village

The farming village consists of row houses on a narrow street.

I suspect that because of our one bus having stopped in that small farming village on our way back from Mount Huangshan, envious people must have asked to see a real farming village. Because, when leaving Xi’an for the airport, we were told we had time to visit a small farming village. Of course, we made a sensation again. One woman opened her house for us to see. (I think she must have been an auntie of one of the tour guys.) Can you imagine having 100 muddy shoed foreigners tromp through your house?

Auntie’s farm house.

Each door is different. I suppose that is so the farmers will know when they’re home.

Our host’s kitchen with wood-burning wok stove.

With common walls to the other houses on both sides, this house had an entry into a covered breezeway. On one side of the breezeway, smelling of fried sesame oil, was an all-tiled kitchen with two wok holes in the wood-burning stove area. Opposite the kitchen was a bedroom. The breezeway led to a small open courtyard beyond which was a living room, another bedroom and a storage room. I saw no bathing facilities even though the people are generally clean. I forgot to ask our guide about a bathroom.

Grandfather inspects the pig pen with his buddy.

Flight to Beijing

Boarding China Northwest Airlines for Beijing, I expected the 1 1/2 hour flight to be similar to the one from Chongqing to Xi’an. Well, not so. First of all, we were served a full meal with real flatware. There was an in-flight movie (a short one). Then the flight attendants gave each passenger a gift-boxed silk tie! This is the economy flight?

To learn about Palm Springs real estate, please visit http://www.torbuck.com or email me: tor@torbuck.com

Next posting – Part Five, Beijing and the Great Wall

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I Shopped My Way Across China (part 3 of 5)

Three Gorges Dam

Through the Dam locks – the Gezhou Dam that is

Entering the lock at Gezhou Dam.

I wasn’t aware that there were any dams across the Yangtze yet. But at the city of Gezhouba, a dam was built in the 1950s. The Gezhou Dam isn’t terribly impressive. From our approach, it looked to be about 150 high. While moving into one of the three locks, we were told that there is a pecking order of ships.

Obviously the boats are built to just fit the locks.

The first priority is passenger boats. So, we went through without waiting. The second layer consists of work boats, fishing boats etc. The last to be allowed through are the barges (which are the majority of river craft). Sometimes, a barge may wait weeks before being allowed into the lock.

To learn about Palm Springs real estate, please visit http://www.torbuck.com or email: tor@torbuck.com

Three Gorges: Xiling Gorge, Wu Gorge & Qutang Gorge

Low-lying farmlands are prevelant before we approach the dam.

Soon after passing through Gezhouba, the terrain starts to change from soft river banks to hills. We’re entering Xiling Gorge the first and largest of the three gorges. The constant mist and haze add drama to the sheer cliffs.

The terrain starts to change from soft river banks to hills

Sandouping (Site of the world’s largest dam)

A word that is much over-used to describe things that are simply interesting is awesome. However, standing on the edge of the Three Gorges Dam is AWESOME!!!

Words cannot describe the overwhelming sense of awe one feels when you look out at an endless vista of huge pits being filled with incomprehensible amounts of earth and cement by cranes so tall you can’t see the tops because of the clouds. How did man conceive of doing this and then actually make it come to pass. The mind boggles.

24-hours a day, the construction continues, as this postcard shows.

Kendra was able to make the trek even though she’s still feeling uneasy from her illness.

To learn about Palm Springs real estate, please visit http://www.torbuck.com or email: tor@torbuck.com

Wushan

Three Lesser Gorges – Daning River

Sialing through the Dragon Gate Gorge, I noticed the water changes from the Yangtze’s chocolate milk brown to emerald green then to deep aqua blue.

From Wushan we take 3 sampans (actually motorized river busses that hold 36 passengers) up the Daning River, a major tributary to the Yangtze. After a couple of miles, we notice the water changing from the Yangtze’s chocolate milk brown to emerald green then to deep aqua blue. The sun appears for the first time on this trip. The first gorge is called Dragon Gate Gorge.

Crazy place to put a road!

The canyon walls are covered with lush vegetation. What’s that? I could swear I just saw a tiger leap into a bush on the side of the cliff. Must be my imagination.

Next, we come into the Misty Gorge. The guide is talking about the hanging coffins on the cliffs that were discovered here…some are 2,000 years old.

…raining down the cliff…hundreds of Reese’s monkeys spilling onto the riverbank.

Then one of the oarsmen yells, “MONKEYS… MONKEYS…MONKEYS!” And there, raining down the cliff…hundreds of Reese’s monkeys spilling onto the riverbank. Why did they come down at that moment? There were many boats passing by before ours arrived. Of course! They came to greet me!!

An oarsman pulling us through the shallows with bamboo poles. Note the hawker running the rocks to meet us at his next opportunity.

Passing into the Emerald Gorge, we start to scrape bottom on the rocky shallows. The oarsmen go into action with their poles digging into the bottom, pushing and shoving us against the current.

The entrepraneurial spirit is alive and well.

At about that time, we see a line of kids. Some have trinkets for sale. Others just want money. We were warned not to give money or encourage them. They could be pulled under by the draft of the boat. They still come. It’s tough not responding to them.
One kid is more persistent than the others. As we pull away from the crowd, he runs across the rocky beach, following us. Then at the next slow-down, he’s back in the water wanting us to buy from him! I want to, but I hold back.

Then at the next slow-down, he’s back in the water wanting us to buy from him!

Among the other thing we see, boats that look like our’s but with the word Immigration stenciled on the side and a Chinese flag flying. These are official relocation forces. They are taking people from their ancestral homes to a new home in some new village or Shanghai or (God forbid) Chongqing.

This process is ongoing. The first inundation will occur in 2003. It will raise the river level 135 meters above present levels. Millions of people must be moved out before then. When the dam is completed, the river will rise to a total of 175 meters above present levels. That’s a lot of water!

Along our journey there are many signs with 135 and 175 clearly marked.

Along our journey there are many signs with 135 and 175 clearly marked, showing exactly where the river levels will reach. It’s hard to believe how much of this natural beauty, archeological sites and ancient farmland will be lost…forever.

We stop for a short while to pick up rocks on the beach and cool ourselves. Of course, there are entrepreneurs selling anything they can; mostly brass bells, dragon-headed canes, phony silver dollars and man-made river fossils. Well, back to the ship and the muddy Yangtze.

Exploring the rocky beachead.

Look at Tucker! He’s wet head to foot. I guess the water was just too inviting! Aren’t twelve year olds supposed to do that?
(I just found out that there used to be tigers in this region and although they are said to be extinct in the area, the guide won’t say I didn’t see one!)

Contemporary note: The Three Gorges Dam was completed on time. Many of those things which I saw between the dam and Chongching (particularly in the three lesser gorges) will never be seen again…they’re now under water.

To learn about Palm Springs real estate, please visit http://www.torbuck.com or email: tor@torbuck.com

Wanzhou

Open-air Market

Finally! We get to see a real open-air market.

Finally! We get to see a real open-air market. I’ve been told that the government is trying to close them down…I suppose for health reasons. But I’m really glad I had the chance to see this one. After passing the trinket stalls, I found shop after shop of butchers. The stench of rotten flesh, the shirtless butchers hacking away at hanging carcasses, gives one a sense of the real china.

Ya can’t get any fresher than this!

On the next block, there are live chickens, ducks, pigeons and fish. A woman walks by with live turtles hanging by strings tied to sticks (turtle soup on the hoof).

Vegetables straight from a nearby farm.

I turn around and go down the other direction to find all sorts of vegetable, spices waft refreshingly through the air. There are also many shops and table-stalls with common day to day items. Turn the corner and there’s a whole block of anything a body could want. Men’s pants, 10 yuan! Sox, underwear, funeral money, soap, mops are all here. On my way back, I almost trip over a begging cripple (one of only three I see the entire trip). I quickly (running late, again) grab some money from my pocket and drop it in his basket. On to meet the group.

Acrobatic School performance

These are kids from 8 to 16 years old!

Wanshan’s School of Acrobatics is well known throughout China. I can see why. These kids aren’t just good, they’re ready to hit the big time! I liked this show every bit as much or more than the professional acrobats in Beijing I would see several nights hence.

Cirque du Soleil in their future?

The Wedding

It waqs at dinner that night that we learned that Susie and Bob had decided to get married on board…tonight! Apparently, Susie came up with the idea that morning, arranged it with the ship’s crew, went out and found wedding rings (instead of touring with us).
There was a question as to the legality of it. The response from the consulate in Shanghai was that since the Yangtze empties into a major sea, it falls under international maritime law. The captain can marry them.

The entire ship was requested to meet in the Yangtze Club after dinner but no reason was given. Everyone assembled, as directed. Those of us in the know got rice from the kitchen, swiped flowers from arrangements in the hallways and pulled off all the petals and put them in a bag.

The newlyweds in their traditional Chinese wedding attire.

We were all surprised when Bob and Susie showed up in traditional Chinese red wedding costumes (borrowed from the ship’s fashion show).

It was a simple and sweet ceremony concluded by all parties signing both copies of the certificates (one for the couple and one for the Chinese authorities). By then, we had handed out the rice and everyone started throwing it at the couple.

Bob & Susie’s wedding party including the six of us.

After Bob led Susie around the dance floor, I took Landa and waltzed her to them to start the reception line. Then others danced up to congratulate them.

To learn about Palm Springs real estate, please visit http://www.torbuck.com or email: tor@torbuck.com

Nearing the end of our Yangtze adventure

I was continually surprised at the variety of things to be seen along the River.

One of many new bridges under construction.

All of the existing cities between the new dam and Chongching are being rebuilt above the waterline.

This ancestral farm will be gone forever when the Dam is completed.

Chongqing (pronounced Chong-Ching, formerly known as Chunking)

This mountain city of some 10,000,000 people has nothing that I can find to recommend it. It is dirty and ugly.
I have packed most of my purchases in Kendra’s biggest suitcase, so that I can get them shipped home. We managed to get all of her stuff and mine mixed into the other luggage we’re carrying. We’ll rearrange it when we get to Xi’an.

When we get to the lobby, the rest of my group disembarks as scheduled. I stay behind with my new treasures waiting for shipping arrangements to be made.

Approaching Chongching harbor, we bid the Yangtze River a fond fairwell.

As I sit in the lobby, many different people come in to prepare for the ship’s return voyage. Baggage handlers start grabbing luggage from the huge stack in the middle of the room and take it down the steep ramp to the dock for transfer to the airport. One guy sees my bag and tries to take it. I tell him no several times as he is most insistent. He gives up and continues with his other tasks.

Taking in this scene of organized chaos, I see vendors and ship’s managers arguing about something. I realize that this seems to be the way people in China do business. Everything seems harsh, argumentative; no pleasantries or politeness.

I finally talk to Ray Zhong, our tour agent, who has arranged for me to ship my purchases with the help of local, Mr. Liu who is also arranging for Mr. Dixon to be taken to the hospital.

I understand that Mr. Dixon (about 75 years old, traveling with his wife) fell in the shower 2 days before. The direct injuries sustained weren’t that bad. However, there seemed to be some intestinal blockage and he was in real pain.

Mr. Dixon is carried out on a stretcher accompanied by his wife and Mr. Liu. As I start to wheel my treasure laden bag down the steep ramp to the dock, I lose control of it and the bag rolls itself down, landing on its side. Knowing that I had been stupid in refusing to let the porter take my bag down, I relinquish it to him, cursing myself.

Chongqing’s street level is very high above the river level (maybe 200 meters). So, they’ve built a tram to transport passengers and goods up to the street. Mr. Liu finds me a cab and tells him to take me to EMS Air Freight (a government run forwarder affiliated with Air Borne Express), then on to the Chongqing Hotel and meet the rest of the group for lunch. Mr. Liu hands me his card with his cell number and off I go…a stranger in a strange land, trusting that this taxi driver is honest!

A side note about traffic in China: Generally, I have found that traffic is relatively slow, even on the country roads. Everyone has the same right-of-way; buses, taxis, cars, trucks and people. When merging, whoever is ahead of the others (even one inch), has the right-of-way and everyone involved stops for him. When a pedestrian crosses a street, he will step into the road and walk across in a direct and unhurried pace (sans crosswalk), confident that the traffic will go around him…and it does.

Well, this taxi driver was the exception. We were on a four lane boulevard going through a commercial area. There was no other traffic (strange) and the driver was pushing 80 kilometers per hour (over 50 mph). I saw a man step into our lane to cross. (He didn’t realize how fast we were going). When he sees us bearing down on him, he goes white and starts running to get out of our way. We miss him by inches, I scream, but the driver just keeps going as if no one had been there at all.

As we come into the center of town, the driver turns right onto a small street, then left into a parking lot. I figure we’re here. But no, he motions me to stay in the cab and goes to talk to two guys in a small booth (parking lot attendants?) I’m wondering if they’re going to gang up and mug me. After a couple minutes, the cabbie asks me for Mr. Liu’s card. He apparently goes back into the booth and calls Mr. Liu. (He’s lost!) He gets in the cab and we go back to the main road, drive a little farther. He turns right up another small road that looks suspiciously like the previous one but is the correct road. We turn into the parking lot and I see the sign EMS.

Inside the office, I find several people working. One guy approaches and starts speaking English, then a woman joins in. They take me outside where a third person is called over. He proceeds to set up a shipping carton, starts  transfer and packing my treasures into the box.

About this time a minivan pulls up, the sliding door opens to expose Mr. & Mrs. Dixon and dear Mr. Liu. He asks if everything is OK. I assure him it is and tell him that the Dixons are his priority and he should get them to the hospital. And with that, he leaves.
When the carton of goodies is secured (the packer did a good job of it), the first guy (who’s been chatting with me the whole time) weighs the package and says it weighs 15 kilograms. (I saw that something about the way he weighed it looked a little odd, but being unfamiliar with how counter-balanced free-weights work, I didn’t think too much about it.) We went inside. He made a bill of lading and tells me it will cost 1860 yuan ($232.50). (Ray had warned me it was going to be expensive.)

As I get my change back, the woman comes back in and says that the weight was in error. We go out and reweigh the box. It’s actually 25 kilos. (I think the guy that was helping me misweighed it on purpose. He was being awfully friendly.) When I get back inside, the woman has worked out a bill of 3100 yuan (almost $390). I tell them I can’t pay that much. I don’t have it. Then she does something that I found out later isn’t supposed to happen with government companies. She lowers the price to 2700 yuan. I say I still can’t afford it and ask where else I might take the package for shipping. I’m truly nervous at this point and don’t know what to do. She comes back with another price, then more heart wrenching on my part and we settle on 2200 yuan ($275.00). Still way too much, but I grin and bear it.
After leaving to join the others, I wonder if the stuff will ever make it home.

Arriving at the lunch site, I start to pay the taxi driver the amount on the meter, 55 yuan (one of the guides said not to let them charge more). He starts yelling at me in Mandarin. I can’t figure out why. A hotel porter comes over, hearing the commotion, and tells me the driver wants 65 yuan. Of course, he’s been very patient and I’ve taken a lot of his time. So, I pay it. After paying 2200 on the shipping, what’s an extra 10 yuan?

After lunch (not one of our better ones, even though it’s a fancy hotel), we got on the bus to go up to one of the highest points in the city. We entered a park with brightly colored pinwheels and wood-cut figures plastered all over the gardens. It looks like a poor man’s Small, Small World. Passing by that area of the park, we chugged up to the highest point in the city of Chongqing. Lovely! The city has been fogged in all day. We could see nothing (not that there’s much to see anyway). The only thing of interest was an ice cream stand (always in demand) and Chiang Kai Shek’s bunker (a hole in the ground).

After getting to the airport, finding our bags and checking in, we found out our fight would be an hour late. We’re all tired and cranky. The time drags.

To learn about Palm Springs real estate, please visit http://www.torbuck.com or email: tor@torbuck.com

In part 4, we fly to Xi’an…the Terracotta Soldiers and so much more!

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I Shopped My Way Across China (part 2 of 5)

The Road to Yangzhou (and our ship)

Our intinerary states that we are boarding our ship at Shanghai harbor. Not so. Our tour buses dropped us at the Shanghai Harbor all right, but we were then instructed to board different buses to go to the ship. Doesn’t make any sense to me.

The national tour guide (Di) informed us that the trip would take three hours. Gina started singing, ”A three hour tour…a three hour tour.” (A soon-to-be ongoing theme.) Someone else said they had heard it would be 3 1/2 hours. What’s happening? Are we being sold into slavery?

After about 2 1/2 hours, we make a pit stop. I see an old, dirty woman outside the bus asking for empty plastic bottles. I give her mine as I walk into the store and buy some tasty ice cream. Kendra asks, “Where’s mine?” I tell her I’m not a mind reader. Another theme that will follow our journey.

There were many farms along the way to the river boat. Buffalo, the primary work beasts, have their own thatched homes.

After returning to the bus, I collect empty bottles from the seat pockets to give the old lady. Immediately, I’m surrounded by a half dozen little, dirty wrinkle-faced women. There seems to be an amount of poverty in this bastion of the Peoples Republic. Curious…

Continuing on our way, 3 hours comes and goes, 3 1/2 hours, 4 hours. We go through a toll booth and are informed that it’s five miles more to the ship. (“A three hour tour.”) Well, going along at a good clip, maybe 35 mile per hour, we expect to see the ship in about ten minutes. Not so! More than 1/2 hour later we finally get there. It’s dark (after 9:00). We’re really road weary and pissed because of not being informed about all that was going on with this stupid bus ride.

So, I get off the bus to get my carry-on and go to the stateroom for a nice hot shower. I’m standing there looking for my carry-on and as the bus driver and bearers finish pulling off all of the luggage. My bag isn’t there! What’s the point of a carry-on, if it is not to insure having a minimum of stuff for immediate use? And it’s not even on the dang bus! Well, I’m totally pissed and let everybody know it (as I am known to do from time to time). Someone suggested that maybe it is on one of the other buses and I should go looking for it. What else can I do? So, after a few minutes of rummaging around in the dark, I finally find it on one of the other buses.

(I later found out that the reason for the bus trip was that there was a huge storm expected in Shanghai and the port authority didn’t allow our ship to dock because of high winds. We saw no sign of this weather but days later, I read that Shanghai had been hit with 5” of rain in a 12 hour period and there was much flooding. So, I for one, forgave and thanked those responsible for the “three hour tour”.

The Victoria Princess

In the dark, the ship looked fine from the outside. Coming into the lobby, it still seemed fine. Nice bonsai tree in the center of a room with a hotel desk on one side and a couple gift counters on the other. The Dynasty Dining room was aft next to which was a wide stairway going up to staterooms and a forward hallway to some more rooms. (Ours was in this hallway. Room 112.)

Before adjourning to our staterooms, we were to have dinner. So, haggard as we were, we were also hungry and buffet Chinese sounded good…and it was!

Of course there was the usual baggage mix-up but eventually, we got our correct bags. Now, where do we put everything?

With only 2 small desk drawers and a half-sized closet, we somehow manage to get things arranged in a not too inconvenient way. Then to the showers!

At first look, the bathroom in the stateroom looked like (and was) larger than others I’ve known on much bigger ships. The ceiling was about 6’4” (difficult for poor Jay (a fellow tourist) at 6’6”). It has a modern syphon-flush toilet, an 8’ long vanity with a clean sink, but the shower! In one corner was a typical tub-type faucet with a pull-up button to a standard shower head. Cool! Not so…Looking down, I noitce that the floor was all one linoleum surface with a 2” deep trench around three walls of the room. There’s no curb or anything to keep the shower water from running all over the bathroom floor! It wasn’t ’til 2 days later, that I found the long-handled squeegee behind the toilet. That’s right! After each shower we had to squeegee the standing water into the trench to the drain. I learned to hate taking showers. But in tropical monsoon weather, I had to keep taking them…then squeegee the floor!

Note: Although Victoria Cruises web site and their brochure insisted that this ship was built in 1991 and refurbished in 1994, we all believe it was really built in 1971 and the refurbishing didn’t take place in the bathrooms…or on the decks, for that matter.

The outer decks are covered in Astroturf. Or should I say were covered in Astroturf? It is so old and rotten, that the upper deck has been closed off to passengers for fear they hurt themselves by tripping on it. And really, it was not much worse than what was on the third deck. (I checked.) By the way, on the third deck is a strange circular raised area that we believe was once a pool that has been covered over.

On the third floor, the Yangtze Club lounge area runs nearly the length of the ship. It includes a bar, coffee bar, large seating areas (smoking & non), dance floor, card rooms, library, table tennis room, and shops (art gallery, kite & snuff bottle shops and fresh-water pearl jewelry table).

The gym (a stationery bicycle, walk-glider and bar bells) is on the second floor.

I see a notice that the ship’s hairdresser is also the masseuse. I feel like getting a foot massage (which is listed at 150 yuan) so I go to the front desk to set an appointment. The guy gets the hairdresser and she tells him (in Chinese) she doesn’t do foot massage only full body massage (200 yuan). I say not interest (a little huffy since it is listed in the service book).

Back in my room, I get a phone call from a woman in very broken English asking something about massage. I say yeah, not knowing exactly what I’m answering. I thought maybe the masseuse was agreeing to giving a foot massage or perhaps someone at the desk just wanted to confirm that I had requested something. Two minutes later, there’s a tap at the door. I answer and the masseuse (hairdersser) comes in saying in a few broken words and gestures she’ll give me a massage for only 100 yuan ($12.50) instead of the normal 200 but I must tell no one but my wife (Kendra) who has an appointment set for that evening. I also get the idea that if Kendra cancels her appointment and makes it with the masseuse directly, she will get the 100 yuan price.

Well, this little woman starts working on me. Boy, she must have come from the jujitsu school of massage. She goes beyond deep tissue and works longer than her normal hour. She even cracks my neck. Although I generally feel good about the body work, over the next few days, I noticed a couple bruises.

After warning Kendra, she also gets the same treatment. The next day, Gina has someone write in Chinese “be very gentle”. That seems to work because she loves her massage. All of these super cheap massages. I wonder if the masseuse ever got a regular appointment. Her boss might start getting suspicious. Oh well!

Yangzhou – Slender West Lake

Since we drove to Yangzhou, the ship didn’t sail after we got aboard. The next morning we just walked back to the very buses we had arrived on the night before. On to our first tour ‘d jour. Yansgzhou seems a nice town. Interesting business streets very similar to others we will see over and over in the next two weeks. Slender West Lake, once again a formerly private estate, is a huge park. We will only tour a quarter of it and it will take 2 hours to walk through. This is the quintessential Chinese garden.

The most notable plants there are the lotus. There are rows of pots filled with the plants as well as many ponds. Not many plants are in bloom right now but those few blossoms we find are amazing. I understand why they’re so revered.

Lotus Flower – The stems of the lotus are also eaten. They taste similar to hearts of palm.

Also, there are some fabulous buildings; a sherpa, a temple and pagoda as well as ancient bridges and other places from which to appreciate these masterpieces. I’m feeling much better about China and its gardens by this time. We return to the ship for lunch and sail off to our next destination.

Nanjing – Dr. Sun Yat Sen Mausoleum

After lunch we stop at Nanjing (Nanking), the Ming Dynasty’s first capital city, now the provincial capital of Jiangsu.

After an hour’s drive and 412 stairs, we find ourselves at Dr. Sun Yat Sen’s Mausoleum in the Purple and Gold Mountains. The leader of the successful revolt against the Qing (Ching) Dynasty, Dr. Sun became the first President of the Republic of China. After his death in 1925, the government built this final resting place in his favorite place of contemplation (good feng-shui, between a mountain and water(the Yangzte)).

Who would suspect that there are 412 steps to Sun Yat Sen’s mausoleum by looking at these entry gates?

From there, we return to Nanjing with a stop for a short while at the Confucius Temple which is really a shopping district a-la Chinatown. (Shopping…YAY!) Back to the ship, moving on.

Mt. Huangshan (The Yellow Mountain)

(from our port city of Chizhou)

(A three hour tour). We’re taking a long drive today to see one of China’s most well known and beautiful natural wonders, Mount Huangshan. When we arrive, peasants are there selling walking sticks (rough lathe-turned sticks with cane-style handles) for 5 yaun (60¢). We all buy one.

     Gondola Ride

From here, we take a cabled gondola that holds about 30 people to the top of the mountain. It’s starting to rain. As we gather in the waiting room at the top, the rain comes down really hard. People who don’t have a hooded windbreaker (yes, I’m prepared), are buying yellow plastic sheet ponchos at 5 yuan each.

We start walking the path to the hotel where we’ll have lunch. There are many steps without railings. As we’re walking, enjoying the beauty, Kendra notices a woman ahead of us who is having trouble navigating the steps.

She offers the lady assistance. So, Kendra and I each take a hand and get her to our destination. Along the way, the woman tells us her story of how she was recently widowed, then convinced by her friends to come to China anyway. (This was supposed to be their second honeymoon.) A truly sad story.

     Middle School #4 Staff

After lunch, I go out to the terrace and start taking pictures. I haven’t noticed which direction the rest of the group has gone, so I start following my nose.

Fascinating! I see many men carrying bundles on shoulder poles. Then it occurs to me. Everything on this mountain must be hand carried…building materials, food for the restaurants, garbage… everything. I later find out that there are four hotels and numerous eateries on the mountain. There’s a whole lotta’ carryin’ goin’ on!

Everything is carried up and down the mountain by shoulder-pole.

As I’m wandering along, a small group of Chinese tourists pass me and a cute guy says “Hello” and I say Hi. They all titter. Then, as they walk, they’re talking and laughing. I feel self-conscious. I check my fly. Not it. Not wanting to be the brunt of their jokes, I lag behind.

I find myself wishing the weather was a bit better. With all the rain, I can’t get lot of good shots.

A few minutes later, I find that I’ve caught up with them again. This time one of the women says hello and starts asking questions. Where am I from, am I enjoying China, etc. She explains that the group she’s with are teachers from the local Middle School. I’m introduced to the cute guy who first spoke to me. He’s the principle, the one next to him is the vice-principle. They ask if I’d like to join them walking. As we go along she explains about the beautiful scenes we’re viewing. This tree is 1500 years old. It was considered very sacred, etc. When we reach another hotel (very recently built), they are stopping for lunch.

So, I bid them farewell and continue on my way, looking for vistas to photograph. What I find are a lot of people, another hotel and several kiosks selling trinkets. It’s time to turn around to go back to our group’s meeting spot. As I come upon a fork in the trail, another cute guy says hello. We chat for a few minutes (there are many Chinese anxious to practice their English) but I must get going.

     Lost Camera

When I get back to the hotel, it has long since stopped raining, I take off my jacket and camera, open my pack and put stuff away. Joining up with the others, going back to the gondola, I spot a fabulous vista that I missed on the way up because of helping the widow.

So, I go out to the point to take a shot. Uh-Oh! No camera! I look frantically. Not there. Then it strikes me. I left my 2-week old camera (full of fabulous shots) on the hotel steps. Rushing back to get it, I know it won’t be there…even though it’s been less than 5 minutes since I left it. Of course, I am right. It’s gone!

Now, I’m mad at myself. I mutter and sputter all the way back to the gondola. Nearly everyone’s hears my story. I get in the gondola car and hear someone on the other side of the car say that Ray (our guide) found a Pentax camera. I can’t believe my ears!

I get out of the gondola to find Ray. He has it! He tells me that a Chinese tourist had seen me leave it and figured it must belong to someone in our group (Americans) and gave it to Ray. That day, my faith in humanity went up a notch. I also learned that the Chinese people are basically honest. I wish people in our country could learn that.

     Bus Breakdown

As we’re winding our way back down the mountain, we must take the same detour that we did on the way up. It’s a bumpy one lane gravel road that passes through some small farming villages. Very scenic!

The problem is that it’s now rush-hour and the few vehicles that are on this road all seem to be in the same place at the same time but not going in the same direction! Our miracle bus driver somehow makes it through and we’re on our way again. As we’re going through one village, the bus engine sputters and dies.

We coast to a stop just off the road so the other traffic can get by. We’re thrilled at having a real adventure and get off the bus while village residents start gathering near us. (They never see busses, let alone busses full of white tourists.) Kendra and Fran have candy. They give some to the kids. One kid tries to take it all. Typical kid!

After a few minutes, the driver fires up the bus and we depart, feeling as though we actually saw a bit of real China.

Mt. Lushan (from our port city of Jiu Jiang)

Gorgeous views while assending Mt. Lushan.

Leaving our ship, docked at Jiu Jiang, the bus drives around Poyang Lake, the largest lake in China, we head to Jushan.

On our way to Chiang Kai Shek’s Summer Villa in Lushan, we stop several times. The first stop allows us to take pictures of an old graveyard on a hillside which is located across from a tea plantation. The crypts are in the old Chinese style, built with flying eves, finished in red or blue tiles.

Old crypt in a cemetary across from the tea plantation.

At the tea plantation, we learn that only the very top, undeveloped leaves are pinched off. Any below that are not drinkable. Also, tea plants are cultivated for seven years, then cut to the ground. This way the tea plant can continue to produce through three cuttings or 28 years before being replaced.

The tea plantation.

Continuing to Lushon I’m reminded of the road to Hana on Maui. The hills are covered with the same type of lacy bamboo forests.

Lacey bamboo forest

Our next stop is at the Invisible Bridge; a beautiful green gully with a flat rock jutting out that looks like the beginning of a natural bridge; the rest being invisible. Passing beyond that, we find a small waterfall and stream.

     Chiang Kai Sheck’s summer home Meilu Villa

Seeing Chiang’s Villa, I’m underwhelmed. There are so many other homes in the area that are far grander. Although it is historically noteworthy, the most interesting fact I came away with is that Madame Chiang is still alive in New York City. She’s 104 years old and supported by the People’s Republic of China after leaving Taiwan when the Nationalists lost power in the 1970s.

The unremarkable Villa Meilu, Chiang Kai Sheck’s summer home

An interesting note is that in many of the places we would see, the walkways were often intricately designed.

      Power Shopping

We were given the usual 1/2 hour to wander the shopping street of the mountain resort. Well I found the pigeon blood vase I’d been seeking along with numerous other things (a crackle-glazed celadon vase, a wood carving of an emperor on horseback, a chrysanthemum dish and brass bookmarks). I’m discovering that I’m good at bargaining, too…and quick! What I found in half an hour, others would have taken half the day.

Yes, quick…but I’m running late! Where’s the bus? Oh, there it is. Whew. As I board, arms full, I get a round of applause from the others. I’m the last to arrive…yet another theme that will be repeated.

     Tao Temple and Hermit’s Grotto

Our last stop is a mountain-top Tao Temple and the Hermit’s Grotto situated right next to each other.

     Fashion Show

That evening on board, we are treated to a fashion show of period costumes as well as clothes in the ship’s store. The models are the ships wait and service staff. They do a very good job of it.

Onboard, we are treated to a lovely display of Chinese fashions from 3,000 years ago through to the present.

Wuhan

     Hubei Provincial Museum

The Hubei Provincial Museum houses the famous bells of Marquis Li of Chu. We hear a performance using exact replicas of those bells. They sound magnificent. The originals and all the other instruments (and some of the remains of Li’s concubines) can all be viewed.

These actual bells were burried with Marquis Li about 2,400 years ago.

     Walking Street shopping area

Kendra, Francine, Susie, Bob and I decided to have lunch and shop on the Walking Street, one block from the dock. So, our first non-Chinese meal of the trip finds me bamboozled into hitting MacDonalds.

The Big Mac is much like home but the fries are better (like they used to be 30 years ago, here).

Many of the buildings at the Walking Street are of European design.

This shopping area is a major spot for locals to shop. Not many tourists seen here. Most sales people don’t speak English. We were told by the guide that there’s no bargaining here but many shops are having sales this time of year…and boy, he was right! I got a vest for 5 yuan (60¢), polo and t-shirts for 25 to 35 yuan ($3.10 to $4.35) each! AND, they’re American labels & sizes! I go crazy. Susie and Bob aren’t interested in where we’ve stopped, so they go off on their own.

Kendra got something special from a piece of public art.

We then head down a side street (little more than an alley) to find the real bargains. Tiny open storefronts with CDs and VCDs from 5 to 15 yuan each. Some of the titles aren’t available in the States, yet. Shrek is still in the theaters back home! Quills has just finished its run. Yet, here they are for home viewing for practically nothing!

Francine finds a new ride.

Yikes! More polo shirts…and only 10 yuan ($1.25). My Chinese size is 52 or 53. Most stores carry up to size 42. So, finding anything to fit is tough. But I manage. PIG HEAVEN!!!

The side streets offered some real bargains!

After a full afternoon of shopping, we’re pooped. So, we stop in a bakery (or so we thought) called Bón Apatit. It’s European styled but the bad service and strange menu keep us guessing. Taro (Poi) ice cream isn’t so bad!

Yueyang

     Yueyang Tower

The poet Fan Zhongyan, one of China’s most well known and loved poets, was known to come to the Yueyang Tower to contemplate and write. His most famous prose can be found emblazoned inside the tower itself.

Mao also wrote something there which is in the room on the top floor. His scripture is the only reason the Red Guard didn’t destroy the building during the Cultural Revolution.

     Yushan Silver Needle Tea Shop

Across the street is a tea shop famous for its Silver Needle tea. The sample I tried did nothing for me. However, in the center of the main floor room, there is a large water cooler. I found it intriguing but knew better than to drink water from it. (Later, I learned, Kendra found it too appealing.)

Ethnic dancers performed for us in the Silver Needle Tea Shop.

Upstairs, two young women, dressed in heavy costumes of a northwestern people, play folk music and dance for us. The walls are surrounded with beautiful things for sale. I found a silk scarf and a carving made from reed.

     Gilligan Party

On our way back to the ship Kendra reminds us to get stuff for a cocktail party she & I are having this afternoon in our stateroom. Fortunately, just before we board, there are people selling wine and beer and stuff.

So, I try bargaining with one woman for a bottle of Dynasty Cabernet. I know it’s a pretty good wine. I can’t make out if she’s saying 15 or 50 yuan. I give her a 50 yuan bill expecting change. She doesn’t give me any. I grab my bill back and try to bargain, offering 30 yuan. Another woman says ok, takes my 50, gives me change and a bottle of wine. Different wine! Too late. They’re gone and I take my bottle up the gangway.

We’ve invited Gina & Francine, John & Larry, Susie & Bob and Landa.

Landa’s there early wanting another acupressure treatment on her back. We go to her cabin where there’s more room and I give her a good zap. She feels better.

Back to our cabin, people are arriving. John & Larry bring beer they bought when I got the wine. Fran brings another wine (we try to decide who’s is worse). The beer is equally bad. Susie & Bob bring hors ‘d oeuvres from the captain’s cocktail party going on upstairs. Landa brings packages of crackers & peanut butter. Gina brings her Oreos and of course, Kendra has her ever-present bag of candies.

We chat, bitch about the drinks and generally have a good time.

Then Kendra starts complaining of feeling chilled. She has a temperature and starts getting abdominal cramps.

Francine tells me about Kendra drinking the water in the tea shop. I can’t believe it, Kendra, the world traveler who has been everywhere drank the water! So Francine then finds the ship’s doctor who gives Kendra some medication (antibiotics, I think). She also takes some Imodiam that Gina has. She’s sick all that night but starts feeling better by the next morning.

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I Shopped My Way Across China (part 1 of 5)

In August, 2001 (pre-9/11), I took a 19-day excursion through China with my sister-by-choice, Kendra. It was an amazing journey. My hope is to excite you into making the treck for yourself.

PART ONE OF A FIVE PART SERIES

I get no respect!

To find out about Palm Springs real estate, visit www.torbuck.com

The Flight to China

Up at 5 am for a Super Shuttle pick-up at 6. Because of packing everything 2 days early, I am ready by 5:35. A good thing. Super Shuttle is here 15 minutes early.

There are others in the van looking excited and ready for their adventures, too. Gary and Marsha from Sunnyvale are going to New York for a family reunion. We chat easily about our upcoming adventures as the van makes one more stop.

The driver honks…we wait…no one. The driver calls her dispatcher who calls the client…we wait. Finally, a blurry-eyed Japanese woman appears, asking (in very broken English) if the plainly marked shuttle is waiting for her. Whom else might be waiting outside her home at 6 am on a Saturday morning, we wonder.

I get to the American Airlines terminal more than 2 hours before flight time to face one of the longest check-in lines ever. Apparently, I’m not the only one leaving this early!

I’ve decided to check the bag to LA, then re-check it to Shanghai instead of checking it straight through. When I get to the counter, the agent wants to x-ray my check-in bag. She says they are performing spot checks…no further explanation. Because I’ve put 24 rolls of film in that bag (so it wouldn’t get x-rayed) I move the film to my carry-on. The agent takes me to the x-ray device, gives the bag to the person there and I say good-bye to my luggage.

I tell the people at gate security, to hand check the carry-on bag because I don’t want all the film to be x-rayed. They reluctantly do so and I’m ready to fly!

It’s about 1/2 hour before boarding time when we hear that our flight to LA is cancelled! While standing in line to get flight change information, my name is called and I find that five of us from the bay area (all on the same tour package, the Richey’s, Andy and Lucille and the Thorne’s, Jim and Janine) are told to go to a United flight that is leaving in 20 minutes. They say that our checked luggage will be transferred as well. I wonder…I rush to the correct gate, allowing the carry-on to go through x-ray (not enough time for anything else).

Well, of course, when I go to pick up my checked bag in LA, it’s not on the carousel! So, I report it to the lost baggage clerk who is very helpful. (Can I live in China for 3 weeks with just a carry-on?) After making several phone calls (to no avail) and filling out the form, she suggests that I continue checking the carousel as each successive San Francisco flight arrives. She’s right! Two flights later, there’s my bag!

Entering the international terminal about 10 am, (flight leaves at 1:30) I’m met with what looks to be a million people all going someplace exotic. Although I’m way early and have no idea who I’m looking for (I forgot to bring the name of the tour company and coordinator (I think his name is Something Jong)). I look for China Eastern Airlines counter AND Kendra (in case she’s about). Well, I find the counter but don’t check in because one of our e-mail instructions said that the tour coordinator would handle that. So, I go to find some lunch (haven’t eaten yet).

When I go back to the airline counter, I find Bill Smith (the guy who set up the tour for the hospital auxiliary). Thank goodness I remembered one name. His wife, Evelyn, gives me my tour badge. Kendra, Fran and Gina haven’t gotten theirs, yet. I meet Ray Zhang (the tour coordinator) who tells me to check-in (guess the e-mail was wrong).

I keep looking for Kendra. Bill starts to worry, too. Nobody’s seen them. Everyone else has picked up their badge. We’re down to less than 1/2 hour before flight time. Bill checks with the desk and finds that Kendra and company are all checked in but we still haven’t seen them. The flight is about to board and there they come. Sauntering along with all the time in the world, come Kendra Davis, Gina Masolini-Vargas & Francine Jacobson.

Kendra explains that they checked in at 8:30, then went back to their hotel for breakfast and a nap.

She introduces me to John Daniele and Larry Alexander, her friends from New York who had decided not to go on this trip (I have their cabin space). But, then changed their minds and somehow got space. So now, our group of four is a group of six.

The seating had been pre-arranged alphabetically by the airline. Those who didn’t have same last names were not given deference to sit with whom they were traveling. Much grumbling from many of the travelers. Somehow, I was seated with Fran whom I found to be a perfect flight companion. However, only about 1/2 of the 100 of us were traveling with spouses. So, shortly after the take-off of this very full flight, many folks were trying to switch seats. Kendra, Gina, John and Larry managed to arrange themselves together about fifteen rows behind us.
By this point, we’ve found out that the non-stop flight to Shanghai isn’t. We’ll get off the plane in Beijing, take our carry-ons and go through customs. Then we’ll re-board the same plane for the final leg to Shanghai. Oh, well!

Then, I notice some really nice things about our flight. First, the TV monitors have interesting flight information: Current time at the place of departure, Current time at destination, Local time, Altitude, Outside temperature. Then the screen changes to show a map of the flight path and our location. (I wish I’d taken a photo of it.)

Our flight plan is to travel north along the coast, following it just below Alaska, over Vladavostok, Korea and into Beijing.
The flight attendants give out hot, moist washcloths. Then bring free beverages, beer and wine included. Next comes our first meal. I choose the stir-fried fish with rice. What’s this? Real stainless flatware! Haven’t seen this on a plane since 1970! The fish is super! It’s fresh, well spiced…really great! After dinner, we receive ditty bags. It’s a cute zippered bag with sox, blindfold, ear plugs, toothbrush, comb…everything to make our trip more comfortable. And we’re in the economy section!

Our attendants are friendly and efficient. Kendra says their’s don’t understand English and are surly.

The in-flight movies are a very strange choice. One is an English-made drama about the life of T.S Elliott. Not what one expects on a flight and nothing I’d care to see anytime. I read, I listen to my CD player, I talk, even try to nap. 12 hours is a long time to be in one plane. Larry’s smart. He takes a heavy-duty sleeping pill and z’s out for 6 hours straight.

We cross the International Date Line. It’s now Sunday. Can’t see anything but clouds in every direction. It’s monsoon season and we can only hope for some sun. Probably won’t get much, if any.

We get a snack of a sandwich and drink. More time to while away.

Two hours before landing, it’s announced that breakfast is being served; yet another decent meal (although this time we get plastic flatware).
As expected, the terminal is modern but rather severe and unadorned. Beyond that, Beijing International Airport is empty! We’re the only flight coming in. Other than customs people, we see no one. There are a few planes at gates but no sign of activity. This is Sunday afternoon! In the States, the airports are cluttered with too many travelers. It’s a spooky feeling.

The 1½ hour flight to Shanghai includes lunch! Another good one. That’s four meals in 16 hours!

Shanghai

Shanghai International Airport isn’t much busier that Beijing was. Spooky.

JJ Oriental Tower Hotel

We’re taken to the Jinjiang Oriental Tower Hotel. Verrry nice!

Our first night in China was spent in the lap of luxury

In the lobby, we’re introduced to our national guides, Di (pronounced Dee) and Bin. They give us our room assignments and, of course, there are errors as to who is rooming with whom. So, when the bags are delivered there is a great deal of confusion and wrong bags are being delivered everywhere. We’re really tired and don’t want to deal with it but, finally, get it straightened out.

Our room is wonderful! Inlaid Birdseye Maple paneling (not imitation) everywhere! The bathroom has Black and Green granite floors, counter and shower surround. The separate, black tub is a Jacuzzi built for two. The curved vanity and mirrors add a truly sumptuous feel. Can we take the bathroom on board ship with us?

An intimate corner of the hotel lobby

Unfortunately, we’re to be there for only one night. Right after breakfast, we’ll be off touring, then go directly to the ship.

What in the hell is Kendra doing? It’s 5:30 in the morning and I’m awakened to the sound of shaking pill bottles and rustling plastic bags. What a noise! She can’t sleep. So, I guess, I’m not supposed to either. Well, I get up and go exploring. The gym and pool don’t open until 7 am. Breakfast isn’t until 6:30.

The hotel garden was simply lovely

So, while Kendra goes back to bed, I go out taking pictures of the surrounding neighborhood and hotel gardens.

When one of the other travelers asked me if I’d seen an observation deck in the hotel, I try to find one. The hotel is 40 stories high with the circular top level. When I press 40 in the elevator, an automated voice says the floor is not accessible. This is true for the top eleven floors. So, only the lower 29 floors are operable. I guess, when the hotel needs more space, someday, they’ll finish the rest. However, no observation deck!

View of Shanghai (and construction) from Brad & Roberta’s hotel room. Construction cranes are circled.

Then, Brad & Roberta Appleby invite me into their room, which has a great view of the city, and I get photos from there.
There’s so much construction going on. Construction cranes and half-built skyscrapers everywhere! (Later, Jim Thorne, an architect, told me he read that 70% of the world’s construction cranes are in China! I believe it.)

The day is cloudy, foggy, smoggy. Most of the trip will be the same.

The buffet breakfast at the hotel is amazing. There’s everything you might expect at a Las Vegas buffet (only better quality) half of which are Chinese style dishes as well! The coffee’s acceptable, but not great.

I need bottled water for the day and know of no stores, so I take one from the bar in the room, intending to pay for it before leaving. When Kendra and I meet up, there is some confusion and timing issues and I forget to pay for the water. When Kendra finds out, she calls me a thief! Oh, well.

To find out about Palm Springs real estate, visit www.torbuck.com

Shanghai City Tour

Two main styles of public buildings dominate the skyline Shanghai: Soviet-inspired European and very modern.

The birthplace of Chinese Communism (1921), Shanghai still has strong Soviet-style imagery around the city

Our first tour (3 buses full) gives us an over-view of Shanghai. Beautiful city! There are more unusual, modern-styled skyscrapers here than any other city I know of. One of the freeway on-ramps is a large circular affair that spirals three times to get up or down from the road. In the center of the spiral, is a large modern Chrome sculpture in a green garden setting. Jim told me that the cable bridges we see are truly cutting-edge designs.

The shopping plaza outside of Yuyuan Garden

Yuyuan Gardens

Our clique within a group of nearly 100 at Yuyaun Gardens

Yuyuan Garden

About 150 years old and originally the private home of a wealthy merchant, Yuyuan Garden sits behind a very busy touristy shopping area. Most of us would like more shopping time here…not to be. The gardens themselves are mostly buildings in the old style, rock formations and streams. Not a lot of greenery and no flowers! I’m disappointed.

Fabu buildings – notice the two globe-shaped and the shuttle jet-shaped buildings. Some crazy architecture, no?

The Bund

The Bund is a riverfront strand that faces some of the most unique architecture in the city. Most pronounced is the Television Transmission Tower. Looking like a Christmas tree-top ornament, it is surrounded by one building that has world globes of glass on both ends and another building that looks like the space shuttle. Fascinating.
As would become the norm, I went off by myself to find things to photograph. I’d seen some wonderful modern sculptures on our way here and hoped to find them. However, it turned out that they were too far away for the time I had allotted to me.
When I returned to the meeting place at the time stated, I found none of our group there! After wandering toward the buses, I ran into John & Larry who had the same thoughts as I. Where are they? We wondered back and forth until we saw Fran near a small market. Everybody was there to get bottled water for our journey. I bought a full case.

IN PART TWO, YOU’LL TRAVEL DOWN THE YANGTZE RIVER WITH ME.

To find out about Palm Springs real estate, visit www.torbuck.com

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